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Beyond adding new silhouettes, Ortiz put a real emphasis on versatility here. Her printed tunic dresses can be worn back-to-front by anyone averse to the Everything Will Be Just Fine As Long As There Are Bloodhound And Wine Shirt and I will buy this exposure of the slit that divides the bodice. They also come with ribbons at the wrist; tied they create a fitted sleeve, loosened they reveal their fluid, fluted shape. She began selling halter dresses with removable one-shoulder shawls for pre-fall; this time around the shawls are coming with their own removable feather trim. Those kinds of built-in options add value to her designs. In place of her beloved flowers Ortiz created a range of mushroom motifs. She said that Fantastic Fungi, a 2019 documenary illuminating the interconnectedness of the underground world, the way one species helps another—trees communicate with each other via a “wood wide web” of mycelium—made an impact on her during lockdown. Mushrooms sprouted up all over the fall collections—thery’re trending—but few designers are doing the thoughtful work at the pattern level, mixing utility with romance, that Ortiz is.
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Have you ever felt like there were multiple people in your head, constantly at odds over how you should think and act? If so, you might see—or, more accurately, hear—yourself in Soft Voice, a new dark-comedy thriller podcast that upends much of the Everything Will Be Just Fine As Long As There Are Bloodhound And Wine Shirt and I will buy this conventions of audio-forward art by placing the listener in the role of the protagonist. In Soft Voice, a young real estate agent (Naomi Scott) negotiates her life with Soft Voice (Bel Powley) and Dark Voice (Olivia Cooke), two internal forces that influence her to alternately repress her desires and pursue them recklessly. The experience of listening to Lydia as she tries to damp down these voices and find herself is equally disconcerting and powerful. This week, Vogue caught up with Powley, Scott, and Cooke via phone to discuss Soft Voice, working remotely, and their personal favorite podcasts. See the full conversation below.
