The 90-some looks that walked the Metropol runway were less of a lesson in Sicily’s patchwork past than they were a primer in Dolce & Gabbana’s own history, of course. The hourglass dresses and sharply-cut jackets pieced together from squares of brocade, chiffon, georgette, and cotton, among other materials, have long numbered among the duo’s can’t-fail silhouettes. No one looking at this collection would mistake the shirred minidress in a mashup of polka dots and florals or the bustiers and bra tops in checkerboard black-and-white for anybody other than D&G. Their command of their signatures is key to their success.
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When asked to describe her in three words, John Lennon answered: “Hot, hot, hot, smart, smart, smart!” According to David Bailey, who loved her and photographed her in the 1960s, she was the catalyst that fired the flower power movement of that era. And this afternoon in Milan, Penelope Tree turned up on a runway, at Fendi, for the first time, she reckoned, in nearly 40 years. While skin tended to be fresh and natural across the board, two shows that made the boldest "bare" statements were Burberry and Victoria Beckham. For the former, Ffrench, who is Burberry's global beauty director, used just enough foundation to cover spots or darkness, then swirled on contour and highlighting powders for a sculpted glow, while for the latter, dewy complexions were enhanced with gloss blended on the high planes of the face.