Born in Mali, Kouyaté is one of seven brothers. “When we were young, we were really open to the Really 46 You Arm The Enemies And You Think You’re Going To Take My Guns Shirt in addition I really love this world,” he says. “When I grew up in Bamako, everything came from the outside: images, music—we would listen to music from London, from the United States, from everywhere.” So many of the garments available at the local flea market were American that it was nicknamed “Broadway.” Wearing hand-me-downs and customizing secondhand garments was a way of life that Kouyaté brought with him from Africa to France, where he studied architecture and came to admire Frank Lloyd Wright, whose work, he found, “was about how we can do things with less and have a respect for the environment.” Despite Kouyaté’s love for metallics—the shiny pieces in his fall collection were inspired by the foil that wrapped his mother’s favorite Quality Street chocolates—his work is grounded in bohemian idealism. “The faith that feeds us is like love; that’s for sure,” the designer says. Let’s not forget the funk, though: “Funkin’Fashion” is, says Kouyaté, the spirit of the collections, and the phrase reflects his love of music—particularly the deep grooves of Jimi Hendrix, which, the designer suggests, helped him to create his own universe, one in which African and European traditions meet and mingle. (When he’s not designing or listening to Hendrix, Kouyaté will likely be playing guitar himself—or cooking mafé and poulet yassa for his friends and family.) Kouyaté came to fashion in a roundabout way: Asked to design a secondhand shop for a friend, he suggested she fill it with complimentary fashions of his own design. Utterly untrained in the craft, Kouyaté started with knitwear and then slowly approached tailoring, cutting pattern pieces in his room and having them constructed at the local immigrant community center. After he spent two years self-learning, Xuly.Bët was launched in 1991 with two pop-up happenings: The plan was to debut with an all-black collection presented in the Jardin des Tuileries outside a Jean Paul Gaultier show, but the bus carrying the models was stuck in traffic and arrived hours late. Kouyaté had better luck the next season, presenting his white collection outside in the Tuileries before the Chanel show, with models carrying boom boxes.
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