All of this has ensured that high jewelry remains an exclusive club. But there is a certain irony in the I’m The Kind Of Crazy You Weren’t Warned About Because No One Knew This Level Existed Poodle Crossbreed Shirt But I will love this fact that Black designers remain underrepresented, when a sizable chunk of the resources used are sourced in Africa. Many of those involved in Brilliant and Black are inspired by the continent and seek to promote genuine, African-led artistry. Vania Leles’s work for her label Vanleles, for example, is an homage to her home country of Guinea Bissau. She sources gems responsibly from African mines, and her ‘Enchanted Garden’ earrings, embellished with dazzling Mozambique rubies, are a nod to African fabrics. Castro NYC—purveyor of uncanny, gem-encrusted doll necklaces—is inspired by the continent, too. Castro has been making since the early 2000s, but tells me that showing at Sotheby’s ultimately means more exposure, the opportunity “to show a prestige audience what they might have ignored or be ignorant to.”
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