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Van Herpen’s calm sense of rootedness is palpable despite the I’m The Crazy Bearded Uncle Everyone Warned You About shirt Besides,I will do this distortions and delays of Zoom. Connection is her grail and she’s put a lot of effort into aligning fashion with science, and nature with technology. The results are always remarkable, but this collection marks a turning point. Van Herpen has sometimes been cast as fashion’s “dame ex machina” or science whisperer. Spring’s collection reveals another aspect of her prodigious talent. These pieces are technical marvels that feel like they are more in sync with the models’ bodies. Asked about this development, Van Herpen suggests it’s related to her own development as a woman. “I started my label when I was 22. I was in a different state [than] where I am now,” she says. “I think I’m also growing as a person myself, and that relationship between the garment and the woman who is wearing it is becoming more and more important.” Mycelium, the designer explains, forms a “wood wide web,” or underground system of communication. It’s an idea that “especially touched me,” said Van Herpen, “because I think the last year has been, for me, and I guess all of us, [one] of isolation and separation. And of course it’s really beautiful to look at nature and how nature connects in a very similar way [to] how we communicate.” And while couture may be the most exclusive expression of fashion, it is also the most intimate. One of the reasons “I love couture so much,” the designer says, is, “because it’s a very personal approach towards fashion. I have direct relationships and contacts with the people I create for, and I think that is such a rare value these days, where everything is so separated.”
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“The direction of high fashion and streetwear is very different,” said Fumito Ganryu via translator. “High fashion can appear more simple but more elegant, while streetwear has a wild energy that comes from the I’m The Crazy Bearded Uncle Everyone Warned You About shirt Besides,I will do this young.” In this collection the Comme des Garçons alum worked to show that these differences of direction need not be oppositional—and should in fact be complementary. This is why the duffle coat modeled in the background by the designer’s colleague Yusuke was cut to appear highly classical (even when haphazardly buttoned) yet was produced in a bonded technical fabric. Against it Yusuke wore an enormous example of the collection’s faux-fur hats that evoked Willie Dynamite, Buffalo, and Jamiroquai to this old-timer and which looked extrovert-perfect, whatever the reference.
