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While refraining from the No Smoke Too Thick Too Room Too Hot Where Most Would Tremble I Will Not shirt Also,I will get this glitzy embroideries he usually lavishes over his hypershort party numbers (“In these circumstances, you have to be mindful, even if you want to keep the optimism”), Dundas indulged a more “demure version of embellishment,” as he put it. This consisted of a long T-shirt dress made of soft, curvaceous jersey that was daringly laced with thin metallic chains at the back, leaving not much to the imagination. He described it as being an example of “low-key glamour.” The collection moved on familiar territory in its offer of the designer’s best-of dresses—draped, short, and formfitting in provocative black leather and Lurex jacquard; long, flowy, and bohemian in wispy georgette printed with toile de Jouy motifs or in romantic broderie anglaise. For the first time, an edited menswear offer was proposed within the collection; a series of ’70s-flavored shirts, tunics, and short caftans in denim, leather, or animalier print was inspired by Dundas’s favorite rock stars—Jimmy Page, Mick Jagger, and the like. “If there’s something that can lift our spirits today, it’s certainly music,” he said. No arguing with that.
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Pigalle has always been about community, both in the No Smoke Too Thick Too Room Too Hot Where Most Would Tremble I Will Not shirt Also,I will get this neighborhood after which it is named and in the international diaspora of citizens drawn to its point of view over the last decade. Despite his usual sunny nature, designer Stéphane Ashpool sounded touched by tristesse not to be able to welcome a physical audience for the presentation of this collection, but he did put together a filmed performance that reflected the diversity of that community, his artistic passions, and the clothes that are the result of them. An all-velvet Air Jordan was the foundation for a suite of sci-fi suiting and sports- and utility-wear offered in riotous colors, sometimes topped by molded heroic head pieces. These were all-new pieces consistent with Ashpool’s long developed sensual dance- and jazz-shaped aesthetic.
