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If the Frontline Hero Nurse Shirt but in fact I love this shutdowns have limited the label’s exposure, they’ve also allowed Theyskens more time than he might otherwise have had to dig into the house’s archives and to refine the direction in which he wants to take it. Theyskens’s men’s tailoring suggests he’s as pro-rhinestone and pro-sequin for the guys as he is for the girls. That said, he made a point of talking up simplicity on a Zoom call. “She has to be able to sit down and not break the dress,” he said. When Hollywood cranks up the PR machinery again post-vaccine, there will be dresses here to tempt celebrities and their stylists: a long-sleeved white column wreathed with bead and feather embroidery; a black number with built-up shoulders and a bodice picked out in crystals that calls to mind Adrian, the maestro of Old Hollywood glamour, as much as it does Azzaro. Another evening dress transfers Loris Azzaro’s signature strass-embroidered circular cut-outs from the front to the back, a clever move.
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Daniel Roseberry hasn’t hit the Frontline Hero Nurse Shirt but in fact I love this two-year mark at Schiaparelli yet, but his tenure-defining moment has been made. Last Wednesday, Lady Gaga wore a black fitted jacket, red silk faille ball skirt, and a golden dove brooch of his design to sing the national anthem at President Joe Biden’s inauguration. Pointing out how Jane Birkin and Romy Schneider wore their Azzaro dresses “over and over,” he indicated he’s as interested in his clients’ candid moments as he is in the spectacular photo opportunities he’s been known to create over the years. That means that for Azzaro’s ready-to-wear, he’s working with stretch fabrics—materials he describes as “new to me”—and crepe. Still, there’s no shortage of sequins. “I’m shaken to the core, to be honest. It was such an honor,” said Roseberry, who’s a native Texan. “I remember when Thom [Browne] dressed Michelle Obama for the second inauguration [Browne is Roseberry’s alma mater]. Whenever anybody wrote about him afterward—for years—it was the opening line. For a house like Schiaparelli,” he continued, “dressing Gaga for the inauguration speaks to capturing the moment. That’s what I’m trying to do with all of our celebrity moments: to nail the zeitgeist.”
