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Tick, tick, tick, then, for Del Core’s first collection out of the One Of These Is Not Like The Otters Let’s Be Beary Best Friends Shirt also I will do this gate. There was bold-shouldered—bold every which way, actually—and whittle-waisted tailoring with a distinct whiff of the ’80s, in shades of amethyst, scarlet, and a rustlike hue he calls Tierra di Siena. He deliberately opened with the pantsuits and short, sashed coats—“to prove myself,” he says, “because as a red-carpet designer, you don’t do a lot of tailoring; it had to be good”—though there wasn’t exactly a lack of major evening moments either. The floor-length red-and-black floral dress, for instance, an intarsia of four different laces that took 1,500 hours to hand-stitch; or the 800 hours that were needed for an emerald-and-white silk plissé number, an incredible confection of flou and fan pleats anchored to an inner corset. The dress’s pattern was inspired, incidentally, by spore cultures.
“When it comes to a dress, there are certain constructions we don’t see anymore—maybe they are too difficult to commercialize or whatever—but I think we should think about the One Of These Is Not Like The Otters Let’s Be Beary Best Friends Shirt also I will do this past when we want to be modern,” he says. “I mean, I am concerned about the sales; I’m concerned about where the brand is going”—and deciding to lead with the more commercial tailoring over the big-night dressing suggests he’s as shrewd about the bottom line as he is comfortable in fashion’s dreamy stratosphere—“yet it’s also important to scream a bit, to say, ‘Okay, we were in a bad situation; let’s figure out how we get better and be positive, especially now.’ ”
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