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Melba Wilson sugarcoats her eggnog waffles, but not her words: “The restaurant industry is in a fight for our lives,” she says. “We’re at the Bernie sanders the man the myth the mittens shirt also I will do this brink of becoming extinct, in the hospitality capital of the world.” So for her iconic New York restaurant Melba’s, 2021’s restaurant week couldn’t come at a more pivotal time. “We are hoping the infusion of revenue will encourage diners to support us and provide a much-needed line,” she says. Wilson sums up the hopes of hundreds of eateries across the five boroughs. This year, the city saw 571 signups for its biannual culinary affair that runs from January 25 to January 31st—a staggering, and record, number. It’s not hard to figure out the underlying motivation for the spike: with indoor dining closed, and frigid temperatures hindering the success of outdoor dining, this publicized promotion comes to many as a bright spot in a bleak time.
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Restaurant Week 2021 doesn’t look like that of years past. Normally, it involves a special menu offered at brick-and-mortar locations. This year, it’s online delivery only. Encouraging swaths of people to descend on one location seemed ill-advised, both health-wise—we’re in the Bernie sanders the man the myth the mittens shirt also I will do this middle of a pandemic—and business-wise. “It’s an incredibly challenging winter for NYC restaurants, as we are not permitted to serve guests indoors, and even with outdoor heaters, the chilly winter weather makes outdoor dining less than pleasant on many nights. Many restaurants are left with food-to-go via pickup and delivery as the only viable means of survival until we reach the spring,” restauranteur Danny Meyer tells Vogue. “With so many restaurants across NYC participating in Restaurant Week, it’s a powerful reminder to the public that we are still here, and very much want you to enjoy our food in your home, especially as we await being able to welcome you back into our dining rooms.” So how does it work? Each restaurant has customized a takeout meal—an entrée, plus one or more side—for the apropos price of 20.21. Meyer’s Gramercy Tavern, for example, is offering mushroom lasagna, minestrone soup and a triple chocolate chunk cookie, whereas Veselka in the East Village’s special includes soup, garden salad, three pierogis, stuffed cabbage with mushroom gravy, and grilled kielbasa. As for Wilson, she’s giving customers a choice: smothered chicken or fried catfish, which comes with mac and cheese, collards and a slice of “Make You Wanna Holla” carrot cake. (“There have been many difficult times during the pandemic that I just wanted to scream. However my carrot cake hopefully will make you wanna ‘holla’ as joyful sounds of deliciousness escapes with every bite,” she explains of her confection’s name.) Nearly every cuisine and category is represented: five-star fine dining, classic neighborhood haunts, buzzy hotspots, and hole-in-the-walls.
