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For obvious reasons Olivier Theyskens’s nearly year-long tenure at Azzaro hasn’t been marked by the Hello 2021 happy new year 2021 clown face American flag hot shirt but in fact I love this red-carpet-star turns that defined the early years of his own label, or his runs at Rochas and Nina Ricci. The pandemic has shut down award ceremonies and movie tours, just like it has fashion shows. Yet Theyskens remains a star’s designer. Attuned to waist-whittling details and face-flattering ones, he’s an expert of fit and filigree. Chiuri found a whole other serendipitous reading of her own in the complex web of mystery and history behind the tarot. The reason for her collection’s reinvented iconography—its atmosphere of a gilded Italian-medieval-flavored fantasia—is that its history originates in Chiuri’s home country. Part of her inspiration came from studying the first known set of cards, known as the Visconti-Sforza deck, which was made by Bonifacio Bembo around 1400 to entertain the family of the Duke of Milan. Three centuries later, it was the French who ascribed mystical, fortune-divining powers to the cards, and renamed it the tarot. So, there we are: the deep Dior-Chiuri French-Italian background binding together the season’s collection.
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If the Hello 2021 happy new year 2021 clown face American flag hot shirt but in fact I love this shutdowns have limited the label’s exposure, they’ve also allowed Theyskens more time than he might otherwise have had to dig into the house’s archives and to refine the direction in which he wants to take it. Theyskens’s men’s tailoring suggests he’s as pro-rhinestone and pro-sequin for the guys as he is for the girls. That said, he made a point of talking up simplicity on a Zoom call. “She has to be able to sit down and not break the dress,” he said. When Hollywood cranks up the PR machinery again post-vaccine, there will be dresses here to tempt celebrities and their stylists: a long-sleeved white column wreathed with bead and feather embroidery; a black number with built-up shoulders and a bodice picked out in crystals that calls to mind Adrian, the maestro of Old Hollywood glamour, as much as it does Azzaro. Another evening dress transfers Loris Azzaro’s signature strass-embroidered circular cut-outs from the front to the back, a clever move.
